Hoa Lu Ancient Capital And The Ancient Kings’ Legacy

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Hidden among limestone mountains and lush rice fields, Hoa Lu Ancient Capital quietly holds the stories of Vietnam’s very first kings. This old capital, once a powerful center over a thousand years ago, now rests in peaceful silence. Whether you love history, nature, or just quiet places with a soul, Hoa Lu will gently pull you in. Keep reading to discover what makes this ancient capital so unforgettable.

Overview of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

Located in Truong Yen Commune, Hoa Lu District, Ninh Binh Vietnam, Hoa Lu served as the country’s first capital in the 10th century. With an entrance fee of just 20,000 VND and opening hours from 7 AM to 5 PM, the site is both accessible and deeply rewarding for anyone interested in Vietnam’s early history.

Hoa Lu served as Vietnam’s first capital
Hoa Lu served as Vietnam’s first capital

In 968, King Dinh Bo Linh unified the country and declared himself emperor of Dai Co Viet—Vietnam’s former name. He chose Hoa Lu as the capital, building a royal citadel surrounded by natural stone defenses. The capital continued through the Le dynasty (980–1009), before King Ly Thai To moved the seat of power to Thang Long (now Hanoi) in 1010.

Although it was the political center for only 42 years, Hoa Lu holds immense cultural and historical value. Today, visitors can explore well-preserved temples honoring King Dinh and King Le, where traditional architecture, solemn altars, and intricate carvings reflect the spiritual and political life of that era.

Among the many Ninh Binh attractions, Hoa Lu stands out as a cornerstone of the region’s heritage. Pioneer Sail Travel suggested this destination as part of my Ninh Binh journey, and it truly deepened my appreciation for the country’s heritage. If you’re planning a visit, give yourself time to pause here.

When is the best time to visit Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?

If you’re wondering when to visit the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, the truth is – there’s no single “perfect” time. Every season holds its own beauty, and each trip feels like a new discovery.

Tet is when the ancient capital truly comes alive
Tet is when the ancient capital truly comes alive

But if you ask the locals, spring – just after Tet – is when the ancient capital truly comes alive. Temples were filled with the scent of incense, the sound of ceremonial drums echoed across the valley, and families gathered to honor their ancestors. 

Food stalls lined the paths with warm banh chưng and sweet herbal tea, while traditional games and performances brought the old city to life. It was stepping into a living tradition.

By contrast, Hoa Lu outside the festival season offers a different kind of beauty. On a quiet visit, I wandered the peaceful courtyards with only the wind and birds for company. The silence let me connect more deeply with the history carved into every stone.

Top spots in Hoa Lu Ancient Capital you shouldn’t miss

Hoa Lu ancient capital holds the memory of Vietnam’s first imperial dynasties, and every temple, stone path, and mountain slope seems to whisper stories from a thousand years ago. Here are top destinations you can’t miss.

Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang

As I approached the temple nestled beneath Ma Yen Mountain, the early morning mist still clung to the stone steps. The Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang stands as a powerful tribute to the man who unified the country in the 10th century. The wooden columns, darkened with age, and the stone dragon carvings drew me into a quiet space that felt both sacred and timeless.

Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang
Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang

The temple complex includes 3 main areas: the inner sanctuary where King Dinh is worshipped, the central Thien Huong hall, and the outer gate called Ngo Mo. Each space seemed to hold its own rhythm, like layers of history waiting to be heard. 

Temple of King Le Dai Hanh

Not far from King Dinh’s temple, I reached the Temple of King Le Dai Hanh, smaller and more intimate, yet equally rich in history. Built in the 17th century, its layout felt familiar—with a front hall, a Thiên Hương room, and a main sanctuary—but its atmosphere was different, quieter somehow.

In front of the main altar stood a large wooden drum, silent yet full of presence. Behind the temple, I discovered statues of King Le, his wife, and their son. Their faces, carved with care, seemed to tell silent stories of power, love, and regret. Hoa Lu old town offers a charming glimpse into the daily life of the ancient capital, complementing the grandeur of its historic temples.A visit to nearby Bai Dinh Pagoda, with its grandeur and spiritual energy, offered a striking contrast — a place where ancient devotion meets modern scale. Moreover, Bai Dinh Pagoda at night glowed with a tranquil beauty, amplifying its spiritual allure.

Temple of King Le Dai Hanh
Temple of King Le Dai Hanh

Nhat Tru Pagoda

That afternoon, I also visited Nhat Tru Pagoda. While not as famous as its Hanoi counterpart, this one felt more authentic, more connected to its surroundings. Built in the 10th century, the pagoda sits quietly with its wooden architecture and layered roofs facing south.

Inside, the scent of incense blended with the aged smell of wood. I admired the decorative lotus motifs and the finely carved dragons in the upper hall — a style from the Le dynasty. The entire structure seemed to breathe with history. Later, I made my way to Bich Dong Pagoda, another spiritual site nestled against a limestone mountain, where ancient architecture meets dramatic natural beauty in perfect harmony.

Nhat Tru Pagoda
Nhat Tru Pagoda

Hoa Lu Tu Tran

Locals believe that to truly understand Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, you need to visit its four sacred temples—Quy Minh in the south, Nguyen in the north, Thien Ton in the east, and Cao Son in the west. Together, they form a spiritual compass, protecting the ancient land from all directions.

I followed this path with quiet respect, lighting incense at each temple and watching locals come and go with gentle smiles and bowed heads. These places weren’t crowded or loud; they were calm, grounding, and deeply personal. 

Hoa Lu Tu Tran
Hoa Lu Tu Tran

Am Tien Cave

Of all the places I visited in Hoa Lu, Am Tien Cave, also called Tuyet Tinh Coc, left the deepest impression. The name alone—“the valley of absolute love”—was enough to spark curiosity, but being there was something else entirely.

Surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and a peaceful lake called Ao Giai, the cave complex felt hidden from the world. The water was so clear I could see to the bottom, and the silence was broken only by the sound of birds and the wind brushing through leaves. Nature here is the main storyteller, and every reflection on the lake seemed to hold a piece of ancient memory. Just a short distance away, Thien Ha Cave Ninh Binh offers a similarly enchanting experience, with its underground river and celestial rock formations adding even more wonder to the region.

Am Tien Cave
Am Tien Cave

What to do in Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?

When visiting Ninh Binh, many people head straight to the natural wonders of Trang An or Tam Coc. But if you’re searching deeper, Hoa Lu Ancient Capital will reward you with more than just pretty sights. 

Hoa Lu’s Old Quarter carries a timeless charm – “Colorful by day, sparkling at night”, but once the sun sets, the place truly comes alive. Lanterns in all shapes and colors light up the streets, especially around the twin towers that serve as the heart of the quarter. 

Their glowing reflections create a dreamy landscape, as if the entire street is wrapped in golden silk. Walking through the lanes at night, it felt like entering a living painting — one filled with warmth and subtle magic.

Take stunning photos in the traditional streets

The architecture in Hoa Lu Old Quarter is inspired by the Dai Viet style of the 10th century. Every corner, from the tiled rooftops to the carved wooden doors, is made for exploration and for photos. I switched between vintage and casual styles during my visit, and every shot looked like a scene from a different story.

You can take photos in the traditional streets
You can take photos in the traditional streets

Taste traditional delicacies

The local cuisine here is a wonderful surprise. I found small vendors selling all kinds of traditional cakes — bánh mùng, bánh gai, sticky rice, and even bánh chưng wrapped in thick green leaves. 

These aren’t everyday snacks you can grab in the city. They are recipes passed down for generations, often tied to festivals or family gatherings. The soft textures, the fragrant smell of glutinous rice, the slightly sweet or savory flavors — they brought the past to life on my tongue.

Discover cultural values from the ancient capital

Hoa Lu is a symbol of Vietnam’s early identity. Once the capital under the Đinh and Early Le dynasties, this land is still rich with the echoes of royalty and legacy. 

It is part of a larger mission to preserve this heritage. Here, culture is lived. You’ll see children practicing folk dances, elders teaching traditional games, and artisans crafting with quiet dedication. It’s a place where Vietnam’s ancient spirit gently whispers through daily life.

Or you can drop by Mua cave, just a short ride away. This place offers not only a scenic grotto but also an invigorating stairway climb. Once you reach the top, you’ll be greeted by a panoramic view over Tam Coc’s limestone fields and winding rivers – an unforgettable sight that captures the grandeur of Ninh Binh.

Take a boat ride on Ky Lan Lake

One of my favorite experiences was floating along Ky Lan Lake at night. The boat, decorated with delicate lights and paper flowers, glided slowly across the calm water. Reflections of lanterns danced around us, and the quiet sounds of traditional music played in the distance. 

You can take a boat ride on Ky Lan Lake
You can take a boat ride on Ky Lan Lake

It felt intimate and peaceful. Tickets are affordable (80,000 VND for adults, 40,000 VND for children under 1.2m, free for kids under 2), and every moment on that boat was worth it.

Experience the walking street Ninh Binh

One evening after a day of exploring temples and boat rides, I wandered into walking street Ninh Binh. Bright lights shimmered overhead, and the scent of grilled corn and sticky rice filled the air. Children ran around with sparklers, and local musicians played soft, familiar tunes that made the night feel both festive and nostalgic.

It wasn’t too crowded, just lively enough to feel warm and welcoming. I stopped by a small vendor selling hand-painted postcards and picked up a cup of fresh sugarcane juice. The energy here was different from the stillness of nature—but in a way, it balanced the whole experience of Ninh Binh.

Join the annual Hoa Lu Festival

If your timing is right, try to visit during the Truong Yen Festival in the third lunar month. This event celebrates the great kings Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai Hanh with processions, folk games, and traditional music. 

The whole area becomes alive with history. When I joined the festival, I saw locals dressed in historical costumes, telling their stories through dance, song, and ceremony. 

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How to get to Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

If you’re planning a visit to Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, getting there from Hanoi is easier than you might think. Let me share a few options and personal tips that might help you choose the best way to reach this historic land in Ninh Binh.

How to get to Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
How to get to Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

By bus

Taking a bus from Hanoi to Ninh Binh is one of the easiest and most affordable ways to reach Hoa Lu. You’ll find many buses leaving from Giap Bat or My Dinh bus stations. 

I remember once hopping on a morning bus from Giap Bat—just 120,000 VND for the ticket, and within minutes, we were cruising past the edges of the city, into the countryside. The gentle sway of the bus, the chatter of local passengers, and the sight of endless green fields made the ride pass quickly. 

By car or motorbike

Or you can rent a car with a friend. You will start from Giai Phong Street, follow the Phap Van – Cau Gie Expressway, and simply follow the signs to Ninh Binh.

The road was smooth, and the views became more and more peaceful the farther we drove from the city. Once you enter Ninh Binh province, it isn’t long before you find yourselves at the gates of the ancient capital. For a more adventurous option, many travelers choose Ninh Binh motorbike tours to enjoy the freedom of the open road and take in the stunning countryside at their own pace.

By train

This was my favorite choice. I also bought a ticket at Hanoi Railway Station, just under 150,000 VND, and boarded the morning train bound for Ninh Binh on another trip. The soft hum of the engine, the gentle rhythm of the tracks, and the early sun casting long shadows across the rice paddies—I can still picture it clearly. 

After nearly 2 hours, I arrived at Ninh Binh Station, where I took a short taxi ride to reach Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. If you prefer a relaxed and scenic way to travel, this is the route I would gently suggest.

Suggested places to stay in Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

There are plenty of options scattered around Ninh Binh Vietnam. Some travelers I met during the trip spoke fondly of Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort, where you wake up in the middle of lush paddies and can bike along quiet village paths. 

Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort
Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort

Others mentioned Trang An River View Homestay, a simple, friendly place where the owners treat you like family. There’s also Trang An Mountain House, hidden in a tranquil corner at the base of the mountains, which seems to be a favorite for those wanting complete silence and a view worth waking up early for.

As for me, I ended up choosing Trang An River View Homestay – and I’m still glad I did. There was something about the way the river shimmered in the early morning light, and how the breeze carried the scent of wildflowers and cooking smoke from nearby homes. 

The family who runs the place welcomed me like an old friend, offering fresh tea and helpful advice about visiting the nearby Hoa Lu temples. At night, I sat on the porch listening to crickets and soft laughter drifting from the kitchen.

Things to keep in mind when traveling to Hoa Lu ancient capital

Hoa Lu ancient capital is beautiful, but also deeply rooted in culture and history. If you’re planning to visit, here are a few things I learned that made my experience more meaningful.

Things to keep in mind when traveling to Hoa Lu ancient capital
Things to keep in mind when traveling to Hoa Lu ancient capital

Dress respectfully when visiting Hoa Lu temples

I chose a light, long-sleeved shirt and loose pants—not because anyone told me to, but because the peaceful atmosphere of Hoa Lu simply calls for modesty. Most locals were dressed simply and conservatively, and blending in with that made me feel more connected to the space.

Take off your hat and sunglasses before entering sacred areas

The temples are quiet and spiritual. Out of respect, I followed what others did—removing my hat, lowering my voice, and taking a breath before stepping inside. It wasn’t about rules, just basic courtesy that helped me experience the space more deeply.

Bring water and wear comfortable shoes

Ninh Binh can get hot, especially around noon. I was glad I had a water bottle on hand to stay refreshed. Also, the stone paths in Hoa Lu and the climbing steps around the area made me thankful for my sturdy walking shoes.

Keep your voice down and stay calm in temples

Silence is golden here. I noticed that even children were quietly guided by their parents. It’s part of the charm—the stillness lets you feel the energy of the place in a way that loud talking never could.

Avoid littering – carry your trash with you

I noticed there weren’t many trash bins around, but everyone seemed to take care of their waste. I followed their lead, and it felt good to help keep such a special place clean.

Explore Surrounding Attractions Near Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

When visiting Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, consider extending your journey to explore several nearby highlights that showcase the natural beauty and cultural richness of Ninh Binh.

For an unforgettable water adventure, the Tam Coc boat tour offers scenic rides through rice fields and towering limestone karsts, perfect for photographers and nature lovers alike. Another breathtaking boat experience is the Trang An boat tour, a UNESCO World Heritage site that combines caves, temples, and serene waterways.

Nature enthusiasts will appreciate a visit to Cuc Phuong National Park, Vietnam’s oldest national park, home to diverse flora and fauna, hiking trails, and ancient caves. Not far from there lies Thung Nham Bird Park, where visitors can observe thousands of birds in their natural habitat, a delight especially for families and wildlife photographers.

For a peaceful retreat, explore the Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve, famous for its tranquil lakes and rich biodiversity. After a day of exploration, you might want to relax at the soothing Kenh Ga Hot Spring Ninh Binh, ideal for unwinding and refreshing.

Adventurous travelers can challenge themselves by hiking Lying Dragon Mountain, which rewards climbers with panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes.

To complete your stay, Wyndham Ninh Binh offers comfortable accommodations with excellent amenities, putting you close to all major attractions.

Lastly, for those interested in local sports culture, Phu Dong Ninh Binh—the local football club—provides a unique glimpse into the passion and spirit of the region’s football fans.

FAQs about Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

I’ve lost count of how many questions I’ve gotten about Hoa Lu. Some are from curious travelers I meet along the way, others are from friends who are planning their first trip to Vietnam. So I’ve put them all together to help you.

Can I explore Hoa Lu independently, or do I need a guide?

You can go on your own, but honestly, having a local guide made all the difference for me. Pioneer Sail Travel arranged someone who didn’t just give facts, but told legends and small anecdotes that made the stones come alive.

While standing in the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, my guide linked it to nearby sites like: 

  • Bich Dong Pagoda – A beautiful layered pagoda set against limestone mountains, blending seamlessly with natural caves.
  • Am Tien Cave – A historic cave surrounded by serene lakes and lush greenery, once a royal prison during the Dinh dynasty.
  • Dong Chuong lake – A peaceful freshwater lake encircled by pine forests, ideal for relaxing and nature walks.
  • Thien Ha Cave  – A captivating cave featuring glittering stalactites and an enchanting underground river.

Is photography allowed inside the temples?

Yes, but be mindful. I kept my camera ready but paused when locals were praying. It’s always best to observe first, shoot later.

Is Hoa Lu suitable for kids or elderly travelers?

Absolutely. The paths are mostly flat, and the pace is gentle. I saw families with children listening wide-eyed to tales of kings and warriors, and older visitors walking peacefully under banyan trees.

Can I buy souvenirs at Hoa Lu?

There are a few local stalls near the entrance selling handmade crafts, snacks, and paper fans. I picked up a hand-stitched postcard that still sits on my desk.

Conclusion

As the sun begins to set behind the mountains, the courtyards of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital grow quiet again. You may find yourself standing alone beneath a banyan tree, hearing nothing but the wind brushing against old stone walls. In that stillness, you realize it’s not just a place you visited, but a moment in time you stepped into. And long after you leave, part of your heart might still linger there, walking the ancient paths of Hoa Lu.

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